Monday, May 26, 2008

Confessions

We've been all together in a tent for 6 weeks now and other than a few minor tent and airbed repairs, we are all in one piece. For more descriptions and pictures scroll down- we've been unconnected for several weeks so I'm posting multiple ones now.)
So okay, confession.... somehow I envisioned this trip as not only an introduction for the kids to American culture and a chance to experience the wilderness and God's creation for an extended period of time, but also I saw myself waking up for the sunrise each morning. I saw myself spending hours sketching some of the sights that we were seeing and having long quiet times of reflection about our time in Bundibugyo and conversations with God about our future. Somehow in my mind's eye I am alone or with Kev as we look at vista upon vista.
Reality yet again crashes in and over my expectations as four smallish high energy children bounce around me. We have had a wonderful time-- but each morning I find myself begging for a few more minutes of warm, deep sleep and my contemplation of the incredible extravagance of God's creation occurs with a 35 pound pre-schooler strapped to my back whispering "Wow!" in my ear and holding the hand of an eager 9 year old as he yet again wanders too close to the edge of a cliff. And in an unexpected and yet expected way a far more beautiful thing happens- a 45 minute conversation with my child about the things that are important to him, peppered with "Wows! and Look Mommy!" from my other son. And I have time to listen to his dreams and to look and share their amazement.
We are still waiting to see that "writing on the wall" for what our future holds, but our wondering about what's next for our family hasn't stopped us from simply being here now, enjoying this grand adventure for what it is and being thankful for each other and this time to re-focus on our family and our God.

Petaluma and urban hikes

We are spending Memorial Day weekend in Petaluma, California just north of San Francisco. Yesterday, we took a ferry in to see the sights. Nate became an expert at deciphering the crosswalk signs. "STOP!!!" he would scream as soon as the red hand appeared. "Now GO! GO! GO!" he would belt out as the white walking man would flash up. Joe and Louisa dutifully held hands and looked both ways as we explored the city. Highlights were, of course, the sea lions at pier 39 and the double decker merry-go-round, Boudins Sourdough Bread Museum and Resturant, cable cars (both new and old) and Chinatown. As we walked down the streets and gazed in windows at various hanging poultry, pigs, other meat and fish our kids were far from grossed out. "Cleaner than Nyhuka market and it smells better too!" they thought outloud. As we walked up a street full of stores with piles of fresh fruit and vegetables Joe said, "Mom, do you realize that if you took away all of the Chinese people, this looks like the markets in Greece." Finally we got to Mee Mee's Bakery, a wonderful little hole in the wall type place that the guidebooks had suggested. We bought a whole bag of fortune cookies, and other delightful crispy treats and then the older guy behind the counter took us to the back, amongst the machines and supplies and showed us how he makes fortune cookies. Each kid got a small piping hot sample. So cool. Since I have just finished reading Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert (I think) I followed her example and asked Mee Mee, "Where is the best chinese food in Chinatown?" He directed us down the street and around the corner to Hunan Home. Indeed the best chinese food either of us had ever had and according to the numerous awards posted everywhere it seems many others thought so too. Of course, we gulped when we saw how small and nicely tabled it was, as I am sure they gulped when they saw our four children. Somehow we made it through the meal with everyone trying and loving different helpings of familiar and unfamiliar chinese food. After dashing in several crowded touristy shops we had the required souvienors... a doll, a fan, some chopsticks, and some Pokemon or Pocket Monsters (As they are called, I guess in China and Japan).
Back at the campground Joe and Louisa are jumping into all of the games the campground is hosting, playing at the heated pool, getting their faces painted and taking hayrides around the campground. Meanwhile, I am taking advantage of being connected yet again and checking e-mail, reading blogs and doing piles of laundry!

Yosemite

As we hiked to Bridalviel Falls in Yosemite both Nate and Savannah were screaming "Wet, wet! Cold! COLD!" in our ears. The baby backpacks do tend to put their mouths right at ear level. The waterfalls at Yosemite are amazing and the hikes right to the bottom tended to get us wet. But the falls were wonderful and we stood the screaming as long as we could to just stand still as the water poured all around. The ranger programs here are fantastic! Joe and Louisa had "Morning Coffee" with Ranger Sarah and then had a one hour hike with Ranger Karen. They are becoming very savy at asking questions and their background of knowledge is building and growing as they go through each Jr. Ranger program at each of the national and state parks we visit. "Don't Bust the Crust! It's ALIVE!" they sing as we hike. They each carry a small plastic bag and wear a plastic glove to collect bits of trash, toilet paper (ick) and cigarette buttes along the trails. It is all very cool to watch their excitement about and growing concern for creation.
Our campground down in Wawona, the southern part of the park was spacious and bordered with boulders and large-ish rocks. All four kids made a game of going around and around the site by only jumping from rock to rock. Of course, there were a few spills but no blood so it became a favorite game the whole time we were there. It is against federal law to have any food out more than 2 arm lengths away from you while in the national park. They are serious about bear protection. So we treated our bear box like a frig, although it was a bit smaller than we had hoped, so only the car seat covers stayed in this one. The water was frigid, about as cold as the snow that melts to make it flow so quickly here. The kids had a fun time trying to see who could stay in the longest. I clearly lost.

Sequoia and Kings Canyon

By this point in the trip, we knew we would need a swimming pool and hot showers. I have to say, it was very bizarre to leave snow at the Grand Canyon and arrive in Lemon Cove, California to meet a heatwave. 100+ during the day and still fairly warm at night. The first day there we spent recovering from the long drive, lounging by the pool and reading. The next three days we hiked through the giant trees, climbed Moro Rock and explored the Zumwealt Meadow. We learned about bears and dutifully unpacked our car of all food, and other odorous items (like toothpaste and car seats!) at each trailhead and stored the offending items in the supplied bear boxes. We did see the most beautiful cinnamon colored black bear while driving through Sequoia. What a creature of beauty and shaggy elegance. Although the roads were twisty, and everyone was queasy and holding onto their plastic bags, only Savannah barfed. Unfortunately, the vomit not only covered her, but her car seat as well. Definitely full of "odor" now! Lemon Cove is bear free... for which we are very thankful. I scrubbed up the seat as best I could because next we head to Yosemite!

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Grand Canyon






"JD, I can't open the door to the tent."

Shockingly enough, our first night at the Grand Canyon it snowed 6 inches! The kids were delighted. Karen, you were right! It was cold! It did make the park absolutely beautiful and all Kev and I could do was laugh as we shook the tent free of the snow that was threatening to collapse it. Fortunately we had set up under several large trees, which saved us. Nevertheless, our screen shelter was damaged beyond repair (by duct tape at least!) and Coleman is shipping out some replacement poles to meet up with us in California!

By late afternoon, most of the snow had melted and by the next day the whole park was warm and delightful. We took a hike down partway below the rim to Ooh-Aahh Point. Our status as more experienced hikers allowed us to try and disprove the theory that it takes twice as long to come up as go down. We reached the point in 38 minutes and climbed back to the top in 42! Joe and Louisa stayed close to the cliff as we went down and up, all of us over-awed by the amazing scenery before us. "I think I could hike this 99 times and would still be amazed by its beauty on the hundredth." exclaimed Joe as we came back up.

Zion

Joe and Louisa loved the Ranger Campfire Programs everynight at Zion. Each night focused on a different aspect of the park. Each program was hosted by a different ranger who presented a slick, well performed 45 minute talk on his or her area of expertise. They were all well attended, and Joe and Louisa would dash to the very front seats each night as the sun went down to learn about Lions, or Creatures of the Night, or Forest Fires. With great boldness and not a lick of shyness they raised their hands and asked or answered questions appropriately. One night they were called up on stage in recognition of their Junior Ranger status, another night they were called up to answer a series of questions as Jr. Rangers. Joe's missionary kid question the first night was appropriately "Is poaching a problem in Zion?"

We did wish that the kids were a bit older here. Although we went on some amazing hikes... like the one to the upper emerald pools, we did dream of hiking Angel's Landing. A four hour strenuous, dangerous, climb to the top. At one point the path trims down to 28 inches with sheer drops on either side of the rock path with only a chain to grasp as you make your way across. I had considered hiking alone for Mother's Day, but the thought of plunging to my death and leaving Kev with four little ones gave me enough pause to leave this hike for another time. Myhre's... you would love it. The Narrows also beckoned us, but the heavy snow melt made the river too rough to attempt the hike up it and through the canyon. The Narrows Trail was officially closed and likely to stay that way for another few weeks.

Kodachrome Basin and Bryce Canyon

JOSEPH GET OFF THE WOOD! On Queen Anne's Trail at Bryce Canyon there are a series of small wooden stump markers that indicate you should look at the corresponding number on your trail guide. Joe ran up to balance on one, as you might imagine a nearly 10 year old would do. Of course, everyone within a fifteen foot radius screamed or gasped as he nearly lost his balance. The markers are placed about 6 inches away from a sheer drop of hundreds of feet down a hard, sharp, rocky cliff. From that moment on he was close by our side. I can only imagine the number of angels pushing from the other side as he tottered.
Kodachrome Basin is beautiful, named after the film when it first became a State park back in the 40's. Apart from it's beauty and cool hikes is the fact that it is lower, and therefore warmer than the campground at Bryce Canyon. Add to that, the fact that it has free warm showers and we switched plans and slept at Kodachrome, and visited Bryce. I have to say, a wonderful decision.
However, Bryce was completely beautiful, exceeding even our raised expectations. I wish I could have spent a month living on the side of the cliff there just gazing at the hoodoos all day long. Instead we hiked down into the valley with Nate and Savannah secured in the backpacks. We chose to hike the Navajo trail back up through Wall Street. This is an amazing if exhausting hike through a narrow split in the walls of a canyon, ascending from the bottom of the valley to the top of the cliffs steeply with stairs cut into the rock and numerous switchbacks. Every view breathtaking. Did I mention yet that Kev is working through his fear of heights???
Kodachrome has mountain lions that visit the campground occasionally and live in the rocks and cliffs around. Of course, this park was the first of many with such amazing and yet shy animals. The kids and we became experts at "not acting like prey." NO running, no getting out of sight of adults. If you happen to see one, stand your ground, try to look big, DON'T RUN and if attacked... fight back. Fortunately, we never saw one of these big cats except on the warning posters.

Capitol Reef

We nearly collasped at Capitol Reef. With sore legs and aching backs we set up camp here and just gazed at the beauty of the red rock cliffs, the blue, blue sky and the beautiful trees planted long ago by missionary mormons who came to tame the land and settle in this beautiful valley. They planted fruit trees and created irragation systems. What an amazing spot to live and work. We plopped our tent down and visited the nearby store to purchase homemade blackberry pie and vanilla ice cream for lunch. The apple butter and peach salsa made from last year's crops looked too good to pass up. The number of orchards were amazing, unfortunately they were covered in blossoms and not fruit when we arrived! We spent a wonderful two nights exploring the valley and gazing up at the cliffs.

Arches





We pulled into Devil's campground and were amazed. This is a beautiful park with dramatic red formations and arches against a deep blue sky with green trees dotting the landscape. The first photo shows our campground with our green tent to the right. God's extravagance abundantly clear with snow capped moutains clearly visible in the distance. The campground is popular, and tiny. We could see why. Our first full day we took four different hikes. Most of the trails climb up and over huge rocks, through arches or cling to the side of steep hills. The kids loved scrambling up and over, and Kev and I got our first taste of what a work out our legs would be getting over the next few weeks. Nate and Savannah are good for about 15 minutes and then in the backpacks they go. Hiking can be strenuous in many cases, adding a 35+ lb. preschooler is quite the adventure! The arches had the shocking ability to through our sense of prespective out of whack. Or maybe show us how we tend to think we are big and other things are small until we really get close to something. The arches look impressive from afar, but the closer you get the more you shrink and they enlarge until you find yourself nearly overwhelmed by their sheer grandour. At the double arch, Nate and Savannah climbed up so high, then turned around to look for me and realized they were VERY high and just froze. I was about 10 feet below and climbing fast, by the time I got to their little perch on the rock and turned around I had to gasp. We were much higher and steeper than I thought and everyone's knees were shaking! Of course, Joe and Louisa had climbed higher still! It was amazing, scary, breathtaking and incredibly fun.

Albuquerque/Santa Fe




We were unprepared for dramatic gusty winds! Our tent, while fantastic, tend to act like a huge kite. We spent a good part of the afternoon figuring out how to secure it to the sandy soil in a way that didn't allow it to lift off the ground! Thankfully, when we were sleeping our collective weight kept it grounded.

On the way to Albuquerque we stopped by Roswell, and had the kids go through the Science Fair like museum there. We spent time learning about mysterious crop circles, and reported alien abductions. They both wished there were more hands on exhibits and less report reading... but nothings perfect.

Our day at the zoo and aquarium made us dreadfully homesick. We spent a good bit of time watching sad looking African animals in tiny enclosures. The kids sighed and missed Mweya and Queen Elizabeth Game Park, where the animals are wild and majestic. Even the monkeys were quiet and the gorilla looked hostile. Fortunately, there was a big old fashioned train that connected the two places, so Nate was estactic.

The clear highlight was Bandelier National Park. The kids, even the twins, climbed wooden ladders into the carved out caves in the sides of the beautiful cliffs. We sat in one for awhile imagining ourselves as early Pueblo indians, that this was our valley, our house, our life. Way cool.

Joe and I dashed in to the Georgia O'Keefe Musuem on our way out of Santa Fe. He had to go to the bathroom so I grabbed his hand and took him with me. He was the only kid, and somehow that raised a stir and caused multiple women to exclaim how enlightened he was. We went from room to room each picking our favorite painting and talking for a minute or two about what caught our eye about it. Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful.

As we pulled into Jodie and Jack's place in Durango, we were welcomed with open arms. What a delightful time we had connecting with these dear folks! Warm beds, great food and a chance for the kids to play with others their age. It was fantastic to get a respite from the wind and cold weather and sleep in "Pat's room." Jodie has a painting that Aunt Pat did in college, framed and on the wall. Joe took one look and said, "Hey! That's better than the Georgia O'Keefe stuff!"

Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico




So here we are at our first National Park... Carlsbad Caverns. I have to say, we were blown away by this impressive, HUGE, underground cave. First, we took an elevator ride down nearly a mile. And let me just say that next to my airplane phobias, elevators are a CLOSE second. I had Kev's hand in the grip of death as the kids hooped and hollered all the way down. We especially enjoyed the Lion's tail formations pictured above. At one point, Joe remarked how he couldn't believe that some of the formations weren't scuplted by a famous artist. Then his eyes got wide as he made the "God" connection. "Wow!" Look how creative God is!" He exclaimed over and over as we wound our way through the cave for the next three hours. Nate and Savannah were stunned into silence the ENTIRE time. Hard to believe, but they never said anything above a whisper while we were in the cave. Joe and Louisa succesfully completed all of their Junior Ranger requirements and took their oath to protect this National Park. A very cool way to complete school for the day! We also experienced desert camping for the first time. The extremes were amazing. We almost reached 100 during the day and then it dropped quickly to nearly freezing at night. Nate and Savannah's highlight was the crop duster airplane that woke us up each morning around 6am and continuing spraying the nearby pecan trees until 10.

Fresh pecans sold in a zip lock bag on the side of the road was our local treat! YUM.